One of the most interesting sights in Prague. The Hunger Wall. Follow it's path up Petrin, find the secret garden nearby and climb the little Eiffel tower for incredible views.
Prague's Hunger Wall
One of the most interesting sights in Prague. The Hunger Wall. Follow it's path up Petrin, find the secret garden nearby and climb the little Eiffel tower for incredible views.
Josef Capek
The very last week to see this Josef Capek exhibition. It's a shame though. It was very impressive and touches on so many levels of humanity, art, history and political culture.
Snow, Snow and More Snow
There's nothing like a snowfall - wherever you are. It brings an infinite number of moments to experience. Snow in Prague is no different, but there's certainly a different feeling among the streets and people when it snows. Moods seem to lighten, and how can they not? It's just so beautiful to see snow covering the red tiled roofs and trees of Petrin.
I suggest taking a moment to walk through Petrin when there's snow on the ground or ideally when it's falling. Take a moment to just stop and take it all in - a quiet snowfall and snowy rooftops of Prague are a lasting impression.
And if you're game enough, walk all they way through the park down to Ujezd. From Ujezd you can grab one of many trams, visit a variety of great restaurants or continue walking across the Legii bridge to Old Town. Just across the bridge you'll find the famous (by Czech standards) Slavia Cafe. It's broad windows offer a great view of the castle and the river - a perfect hideaway when it's snowing.
I suggest taking a moment to walk through Petrin when there's snow on the ground or ideally when it's falling. Take a moment to just stop and take it all in - a quiet snowfall and snowy rooftops of Prague are a lasting impression.
And if you're game enough, walk all they way through the park down to Ujezd. From Ujezd you can grab one of many trams, visit a variety of great restaurants or continue walking across the Legii bridge to Old Town. Just across the bridge you'll find the famous (by Czech standards) Slavia Cafe. It's broad windows offer a great view of the castle and the river - a perfect hideaway when it's snowing.
Josefov and Jewish Quarter
Prague is filled with contrasts. Its history has naturally created all kinds of them - some are soft; some are more startling. I (re)noticed one of the startling kinds this week while walking through the Jewish Quarter of Prague's Josefov district.
The streets at 8am were still quiet and the street vendors were just arriving on the street that leads to the old cemetery and Klaus Synagogue. It was a perfect time for avoiding crowds of tourists.
The contrast came when I noticed that the vendors are lined up along the wall that supports the old cemetery. But the surface of the cemetery is actually high above the vendors on the street (U stareho hrbitova).
You can see from the picture below what I mean in more detail. I guess I never realized the height difference before, possibly because of the nearly always crowded street.
The difference in height is due to two things that I know of. First, the area of Josefov was once known as a ghetto and was basically demolished in the early 20th century to make way for improvements. The old Jewish areas were preserved though. Secondly, the cemetery is very small and was the only place for burials for centuries. Therefore, dirt was brought in and the level of the cemetery was periodically raised.
The streets at 8am were still quiet and the street vendors were just arriving on the street that leads to the old cemetery and Klaus Synagogue. It was a perfect time for avoiding crowds of tourists.
The contrast came when I noticed that the vendors are lined up along the wall that supports the old cemetery. But the surface of the cemetery is actually high above the vendors on the street (U stareho hrbitova).
You can see from the picture below what I mean in more detail. I guess I never realized the height difference before, possibly because of the nearly always crowded street.
The difference in height is due to two things that I know of. First, the area of Josefov was once known as a ghetto and was basically demolished in the early 20th century to make way for improvements. The old Jewish areas were preserved though. Secondly, the cemetery is very small and was the only place for burials for centuries. Therefore, dirt was brought in and the level of the cemetery was periodically raised.
Independent Czechoslovak State Day
October 28th commemorated the founding of Czechoslovakia. Yes, that country by name is now two countries, the Czech Republic and Slovakia, but ties to this date in history live large in many citizens. It was 1918, the end of WWI and the breakup of the Austro Hungarian Empire. And little countries that were once part of the great conglomerate were out, fresh on their own.
Czechoslovakia was led by the still revered Thomas Garrigue Masaryk. And, Czechoslovakia emerged as an impressive democratic and economic blossom.
Strangely enough, this holiday isn't celebrated in the fashion you might expect. There are no fireworks or parades. It actually appears more like a Sunday, no school, no traffic, not much of anything happening. So, in a way it's more of a commemoration noting the day than a celebration.
Older generations (like Grandma) will certainly reflect on this day proudly. A baby fresh country, from land of old, was finally given a chance to be something called independent. And, so, it began and eventually became prosperous and autonomous.
Coinciding with the holiday is the opening of a unique historical museum and monument - the National Memorial on Vitkov Hill. This long neglected Prague sight was originally built to honor fallen Czech legionnaires of WWI. But somehow, and I'm always really curious about this, became a mausoleum for Communist leaders. Of course, with the fall of communism in Czechoslovakia in 1989, the remains of the leaders were removed.
This odd bulky building was then left untouched for years and people like myself would saunter around it, take in the view of Prague and admire the great horse statue. Oh, I didn't mention the statue did I? Well, outside the building as if leading it across Prague is a wonderful statue of Jan Zizka on his horse. The one eyed Zizka was a follower of Jan Hus who was a religious reformer born in 1370. By the early 15th century the Catholic crusades made their way to Bohemia and it was Zizka who led a defense. (These became known as the Hussite Wars.)
I'm not sure anyone really knows how all these things were connected. Let's see... Protestant reformer - noted one eyed soldier - monument to Czech soldiers of WWI - mausoleum for former Communist leaders - and now finally a monument to key moments in Czech history. Well done.
I for one can't wait to check it out. I've been dying for years to see inside these thick concrete walls. It was never a warm place, but I'm very curious.
The one drawback (for some) might be its location. It's located in the working class neighborhood of Zizkov. It's not far from the city center of Prague, but it sits atop a hill and there's not an easy tram or metro line to it. So, it includes a bit of walking. But, I have the feeling it will be well worth it.
FYI: till 30 November entrance is free!
Prague Sights at Night
The full mode of autumn is officially in swing since we changed our clocks back an hour. The sun has nearly gone down now and it's only about 16:30 (4:30 pm). Of course, that's a long day in the eyes of winter, but give us some time will ya.
The one major positive in this change is that it's still warm enough to get out at night and enjoy the sights. I can't think of another city (maybe you can) that is just as beautiful at night as it is during the day. Plus, Prague is so walk-able that it's almost a must to get out after dinner and walk. And, of course, there will be less crowds. If that's not enough motivation I don't know what is ;)
Take the 22 tram up to Prague Castle and walk through the courtyards, see the view over the city and stroll across Prague and take in the cathedral from outside - its lights give it a completely different look. Then maybe walk down through Nerudova Street and have a tea at U Zelenyho Cafe then keep walking down the hill through Malostranske namesti and onto Charles Bridge. The view of Prague Castle at night from the bridge is mesmerizing - honest.
Here's a glimpse of St. Nicholas Church in Mala Strana (below Prague Castle).
The one major positive in this change is that it's still warm enough to get out at night and enjoy the sights. I can't think of another city (maybe you can) that is just as beautiful at night as it is during the day. Plus, Prague is so walk-able that it's almost a must to get out after dinner and walk. And, of course, there will be less crowds. If that's not enough motivation I don't know what is ;)
Take the 22 tram up to Prague Castle and walk through the courtyards, see the view over the city and stroll across Prague and take in the cathedral from outside - its lights give it a completely different look. Then maybe walk down through Nerudova Street and have a tea at U Zelenyho Cafe then keep walking down the hill through Malostranske namesti and onto Charles Bridge. The view of Prague Castle at night from the bridge is mesmerizing - honest.
Here's a glimpse of St. Nicholas Church in Mala Strana (below Prague Castle).
Out of Prague: Loučeň
Czech Republic is filled with interesting places that aren't in Prague - imagine that. And many of the day trips out of the city are great for children too. Just such a place is Chateau Loucen about an hour's drive northeast of the city.
The grounds of the chateau include 10 labyrinths of different forms from stone to hedges and more. You can access the chateau as well via an hour tour and there's a wonderful view of the countryside from the restaurant inside. If you have time to get out of Prague or are traveling to Prague by car, consider stopping here for an afternoon. You can visit the chateau's website for more information. It's in Czech but you can click around and get enough info.
The chateau also offers romantic hotel rooms and wedding services.
The grounds of the chateau include 10 labyrinths of different forms from stone to hedges and more. You can access the chateau as well via an hour tour and there's a wonderful view of the countryside from the restaurant inside. If you have time to get out of Prague or are traveling to Prague by car, consider stopping here for an afternoon. You can visit the chateau's website for more information. It's in Czech but you can click around and get enough info.
The chateau also offers romantic hotel rooms and wedding services.
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